Australian Gothic aesthetics and dark romantic fashion define emerging designers at Australian Fashion Week
A new wave of emerging Australian designers showcased a distinctly dark and gothic-inspired direction at Australian Fashion Week, signalling a shift away from the country’s traditional emphasis on bright, beach-ready fashion. A group show known as Frontier brought together six up-and-coming designers whose work explored themes of romance, death, otherworldliness, and structured sensuality. The runway featured corsetry, sculptural silhouettes, unusual proportions, and experimental textures, with models and designers appearing in head-to-toe black at the conclusion of the show.
The Frontier showcase, led by creative director Peter Simon Phillips and art director Alison Vennes, aimed to highlight designers who prioritise craftsmanship and hand-made construction over mass production. The collection emphasised boundary-pushing ideas and emotional depth, reflecting what organisers described as a new wave of female creative energy. The aesthetic combined gothic influences with Gen Z fashion sensibilities, producing garments that often felt theatrical, symbolic, and costume-like.
Among the featured designers, Haluminous presented futuristic jersey pieces described as ‘nocturnal resort’ wear, blending softness with armour-like empowerment. Ouse focused on transformable garments that could be reshaped into different clothing forms, reinforcing ideas of longevity and adaptability. Suzaan Stander drew inspiration from inanimate objects and sculptural forms, producing highly structured, geometric silhouettes. Madre Natura balanced sustainability with romantic detailing, incorporating corset-inspired construction and tiered skirts. Rose Guiffre experimented with 3D-printed materials that produced sound as models walked, adding an auditory dimension to fashion. Paris Jade Burrows explored the boundary between costume and fashion with theatrical, gothic-leaning garments inspired by historical art.
Courtney Zheng also debuted a solo show, moving from earlier restrained designs to more daring pieces such as sheer tops, textured coats, and statement shorts, reflecting her growing creative confidence. Overall, the event highlighted a strong embrace of dark romanticism, craftsmanship, and conceptual fashion among Australia’s next generation of designers.