More summits! The forecast of high winds may have kept many teams on hold, but we still saw a few summits on Tuesday, May 19, 2026. I'll update the totals when we know more.  #everest2026

Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and statistics around Everest mountaineering. #everest2026

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

Despite sporadic winds and a scary weather forecast, Monday, May 18, 2026, saw scores of summits on Everest and a few on Lhotse. The jetstream remains an issue, so I did a brief podcast with meteorologist Chris Tomer, who described the situation as "erratic."  #everest2026

More summits!  Report after report had the Nepal side of Everest with massive crowds, probably over 150. A few teams have reported in, but we will need to wait for the official summit start to measure how big Wednesday morning, May 20, was. And there are many more to come, at least another 200.  #everest2026

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. As usual, Ryan will film the climbs and post on his very popular YouTube channel.  We also discussed the upcoming Everest season and some potential policy changes, especially on the Nepal side. #everest2026

We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without using supplemental oxygen. You can follow him on his site.  #everest2026

After weeks of delays, the rope fixers finally reached the summit of Everest with the fixed line. However, the jet stream is about to sit over the summit for the next few days, making any attempts dangerous, if not deadly. It turned out that there were members stationed at the South Col, hoping to draft off the fixers and reach the summit—6 members did just that.  #everest2026

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual - client and Sherpa is willing to take? While the route to Camp 1 is about two weeks late, there is still plenty of time this season, so, regardless of what you may read, the Everest 2026 season is not at risk—anymore. #everest2026

Two climbers injured in a serac collapse on Mount Everest’s Khumbu Icefall were airlifted to Kathmandu; both are stable.

We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I'm estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. #everest2026

A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.  #everest2026

After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I'm announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.  #everest2026

The Himalayan death toll is now at five, with two Everest climbers and one trekker on his way to climb Everest. An impromptu rope-fixing team has reached the Balcony around 8400 meters and expects to hand off to the regular rope fixers to continue to the summit by the 13th. Multiple reports say the route from base camp to Camp 2 is one of the best in years. #everest2026

The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

The weather is bad on Everest. Heavy snow at EBC with high winds at Cmap 2. The rope fixing team is hunkering down until it passes. The good news is that this appears to be a short-term event. Now for the bad news. Meteorologists, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions told me today, Thursday, May 7, 2026, in Nepal: #everest2026

A small avalanche off Everest's West Shoulder fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, injuring two. It's a gift that there weren't more. The ropes reached Camp 3 today, keeping them on schedule to reach Everest's summit around May 14, and also Lhotse's summit. Multiple teams are now at Camp 2 for acclimatization, and Camp 3 has been established–particularly good for the no O's climbers. #everest2026

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers. #everest2026

The backbone of every Everest season on the Nepali side are the Icefall Doctors, a team of highly skilled Sherpas who establish the climbing route and set the thin nylon safety rope from Base Camp to ...