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Eat your jack o' lantern.

ALT: Grian Hermitcraft

ALT: Zedaph Hermitcraft

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I always eat my jack o' lantern. Jack pumpkin is cheap per-pound, but grainy and bland compared to food-meant squash, so the uninitiated are often counselled to eat one of those instead and throw Smilin' Jack on the compost. But ingratitude to that degree my Scottish soul hard abides. Indeed, I've been known to buy several of these giant gourds and carve just one, keeping the others in a cool dark dry place for the months beyond. The trick to making meat of this vegetable is knowing how to draw out its qualities, and/or to use it in robust dishes where its colour, texture, and restrained sweetness add value. Which is why I appealed to India for help. The following simple and quick recipe coalesced in my kitchen about 25 years ago. It's a hearty and healthy Punjabi approach, vegan in its native form, with a widely available North American masala, and I look forward to it all year. (Note that I forgot to scatter the peanuts on this one before I took the photos.) Curried jack can be served alone as a side dish or over rava, rice, or diced potatoes for a main course. Don't skimp on the spices; too much is enough. Also, I'm fairly spicy for a white guy, so if you aren't, go easy on the jalapeño, black pepper, and ginger. Finally, like all highly-flavoured dishes, this one is markedly better the next day or later. I seldom get my act together effectively enough to make tomorrow's supper today, but if you're having guests or carrying to a potluck, this is the master stroke. Any road, the unlikely leftovers will be incandescent at next day's lunch. _CURRIED JACK_ Serves 2-4 as a main dish, up to 8 as a side. Ingredients in order: 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper 1 teaspoon powdered turmeric 1 teaspoon whole brown mustard seed, or substitute yellow 1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil or ghee 1 clove minced or pressed garlic 1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped onion 10 jarred jalapeño rings, or 5-7 fresh, chopped fine 1 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh gingerroot 3 pints peeled and roughly diced pumpkin 1 16-ounce can of diced tomatoes 1 large bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon ground thyme 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1/2 cup sliced celery, chopped cabbage, or frozen peas 1/2 cup peanuts (or substitute cooked pulses or meat at the appropriate time) Rava, rice, or diced potatoes for bedding. Take a large saucepan or skillet with tight-fitting lid and chafe it over low heat until evenly warmed. Add the ground cumin, fresh-ground black pepper, powdered turmeric, and whole mustard seed. Move gently with the edge of a spatula until spices are lightly toasted and fragrant. Add the vegetable oil or ghee and stir in the spices to blend. Add the minced garlic, chopped onion, and grated gingerroot and stir them into the masala mixture. When the garlic and onion have softened and become translucent, add the diced pumpkin and turn carefully and well to fully distribute the spice mixture. Turn the heat up to medium and add the canned tomatoes, ground thyme, and lemon juice, turning again to integrate. Don't worry that the tomatoes don't seem to moisten things much; the next step will take care of that. Add the bay leaf and seal the whole under the lid, 5 to 10 minutes. Shake often to heat evenly and prevent scorching. When the pumpkin has raised steam, add the green vegetable, lower the heat to medium-low and turn the lot well. Fit the lid again and allow to simmer until the pumpkin is completely tender and translucent, about 20 minutes, turning from time to time. Scatter the peanuts over the top and serve over rava, rice, or diced potatoes, if a main course.