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The sweater features a yarn made using 50-percent Procell/50-percent wool Created from spent yeast, protein-based fiber Procell offers properties similar to those of wool. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor As the increase in alternative and sustainable materials for textile applications grows, so does the list of interesting raw material inputs. Initially inspired by squid proteins and with funding from BioMADE, Philadelphia-based climate-positive smart textiles company Tandem Repeat Technologies Inc. has created Procell, a yarn that begins its life as low-cost spent yeast. This protein-based fiber mimics the properties offered by wool, with none of the ethical concerns relating to animal cruelty, water pollution and land degredation. Squid ring teeth is a self-assembling protein complex found in squid tentacles. “We initially extracted the genes from squid and heterologously expressed then in yeast through precision fermentation,” explained Dr. Melik Demirel, co-founder of Tandem Repeat and Huck Endowed Chair Professor of Biomimetic Materials at The Pennsylvania State University. “However, we later found that biomass fermentation of yeast is more straightforward and cost-effective for producing commodity protein fibers.” This protein biomanufacturing approach takes the living yeast cells and transforms them into valuable products — such as textile fibers or nonwovens — using a patented fermentation microbial process. Temperature, pH, nutrient availability and microbial strain selection is carefully controlled to maximize yields, titers and productivity to ensure the process is sustainable and economically viable. According to Tandem Repeat, Procell’s greenhouse gas emission footprint of 5.39 kilograms (kg) of carbon dioxide per kg, water usage of 0.52 cubic meters per kg and land usage of 12.4 points per kg are lower than other natural fibers including cotton, lyocell and wool. The denim is made using a 15-percent Procell/85-percent cotton blend. Processing Procell Procell fibers are created using traditional wet spinning processes that are used in man-made cellulosic fiber production. From there, the staple fibers are spun into yarns, and Procell may be blended with other fiber types during spinning. “We have combined natural fibers like cotton and wool, as well as synthetics such as polyester to produce several garments,” Dr. Demirel noted. Initial apparel included a cotton blend dress and denim items, followed later by sweaters that can be purchased through the company’s own brand, Sonachic. “Procell can be crafted for various constructions, and we have developed both knitted and woven fabrics,” Dr. Demirel said. Procell has also been used to create nonwoven fabrics. According to Tandem Repeat the fiber is soft and resembles a luxury wool such as cashmere. The 100-percent vegan, sustainable protein fiber is stronger than wool, but offers warmth, lightweight and breathability equal to or better than wool, and offers similar thermal conductivity. The company’s goal is to produce Procell at a cost lower than that of wool. Dr. Demirel sees applications beyond textiles for Procell. “Our goal is to expand into other markets, including the leather, cosmetics, paper and pulp, and construction industries,” he said. “Protein fibers can serve effectively as feedstocks for all these sectors.” Tandem’s research was supported by funding from BioMADE, an Emeryville, Calif.-based Manufacturing Innovation Institute sponsored by the U.S. Department of Defense, and member of the Manufacturing USA® network tasked with creating large-scale, public-private collaboration to advance manufacturing. “With support from BioMADE, we were able to reach a higher level of technological readiness in our industry where deep-tech advances thrive with government backing and venture capital funding remains limited,” Dr. Demirel noted. --- For more information, e-mail contact@ tandemrepeat.com --- 2025 Quarterly Issue III

Designer Neyla Coronel utilized biobased Balena.Filaflex to create a 3D printed, custom bra that adapts to the body. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor Thinking outside the box and beyond the sewing machine, designer Neyla Coronel set to create a custom-made bra that would be produced in a whole new way during her postgraduate studies at Fabricademy. The Textile and Technology academy offers six-month intensive programs at a variety of labs worldwide that explore the intersection of digital production, textiles and biology with a mission “to (re)shape and (re)define the implications and applications of technology in the textile and clothing industry, from the fashion sector to the upcoming wearable market.” And reshape Coronel did. Her concept was to make a garment that adapted to the woman instead of a woman having to make do with the limited offerings in the marketplace. She combined parametric modeling, 3D scanning and auxetic geometries with 3D printing techniques to create a fully compostable, biobased bra. The bra’s design is adapted to body dimensions, movement and change over time; and the auxetic pattern was engineered to expand and contract in sync with the wearer. Once the design was conceived, Coronel had to find the right material to use and eventually settled on Balena.Filaflex, a compostable, 3D printing filament that Israel-based material science company Balena co-developed with Spain-based Recreus. Balena focuses on biobased materials for extrusion, injection molding and 3D printing that can replace non-compostable plastics used in many industries. Recreus, the creator of Filaflex filaments for 3D printing, focuses on flexible materials to reimagine what is possible with additive manufacturing technology. Together, Balena and Recreus took Balena’s BioCir®flex3D material and created the biobased, fully circular and recyclable Balena.Filaflex 3D printing filament. The softness and elasticity of the material offered many possibilities. “Working with Balena.Filaflex was a breakthrough,” Coronel said. “Its flexibility is essential for something worn so close to the body. But beyond that, it’s biobased, compostable and recyclable. It made the piece not just wearable, but meaningful. “It invites designers to rethink what is possible,” Coronel stressed. “It expands what 3D printing can do in fashion — especially in pieces that need to move and respond to the human body.” “We’re proud to support projects like Neyla’s — it’s designers like her who show what’s possible when material innovation meets personal vision,” Balena said. This experience has motivated Coronel to look at other applications for Balena.Filaflex. including other intimate wear, footwear and even furniture. “Each new material brings a new learning curve,” she said. “But Balena.Filaflex showed me how material science can support designs that are truly human and sustainable.” Perhaps not broadly market-ready yet, at the very least, the bra represents a unique and interesting idea. It illustrates what’s currently possible and perhaps provides some insight to the future of garment making. According to Balena, the intimate garment “demonstrates how [Balena.Filaflex] material can bridge performance and purpose: offering comfort, adaptability and a radically reduced environmental footprint.” --- For more information, visit the balena.science and recreus.com websites. --- 2025 Quarterly Issue II  

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