A fun fact: a Sicilian tailor once told me that they don't call this a reverse pleat in Sicily. They are simply called "regular pleats." It's only called a "reverse pleat" in Britain because their default is a pleat that opens toward the fly. For Sicilians, this is regular:
March 29, 2026 at 10:52 PM
A fun fact: a Sicilian tailor once told me that they don't call this a reverse pleat in Sicily. They are simply called "regular pleats." It's only called a "reverse pleat" in Britain because their default is a pleat that opens toward the fly. For Sicilians, this is regular:
(2/2) this shot really highlights how actually huge the bottom of this dress is! also visible here is the lovely folding texture from the box pleat of the skirt, even if the pleat itself is concealed.
(2/2) this shot really highlights how actually huge the bottom of this dress is! also visible here is the lovely folding texture from the box pleat of the skirt, even if the pleat itself is concealed.
I personally think high-rise trousers look better with pleats, as they visually break up what would otherwise be a very smooth expanse of fabric across your lap. However, for them to drape well, the trousers have to be made from the right material (e.g. gabardine, whipcord, basic worsted wools, etc)
March 29, 2026 at 10:52 PM
I personally think high-rise trousers look better with pleats, as they visually break up what would otherwise be a very smooth expanse of fabric across your lap. However, for them to drape well, the trousers have to be made from the right material (e.g. gabardine, whipcord, basic worsted wools, etc)
machine and a picture of a pleat mold, shows how it was done historical. Tom's Sons have shown some of their pleat molds to journalists, which you can see here. #Fashionhistory
September 21, 2026 at 5:40 PM
machine and a picture of a pleat mold, shows how it was done historical. Tom's Sons have shown some of their pleat molds to journalists, which you can see here. #Fashionhistory
Quality fabrics today are mostly woven in Italy and the UK. Wholesale price is about $30/ yard for worsteds. If you erect tariffs, this cost goes up! But by keeping barriers low, US factories can import quality fabrics, make nice pants, and compete on international market.
April 8, 2025 at 12:14 AM
Quality fabrics today are mostly woven in Italy and the UK. Wholesale price is about $30/ yard for worsteds. If you erect tariffs, this cost goes up! But by keeping barriers low, US factories can import quality fabrics, make nice pants, and compete on international market.
This W&S overcoat also just has a ton of great details: lapped seams, adjustable Martingale belt, tons of shaping through ironwork, turnback cuffs, box pleat for movement, arrowhead tacks, and a folded vent that can be fastened with buttons. All this takes time and skilled labor.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
This W&S overcoat also just has a ton of great details: lapped seams, adjustable Martingale belt, tons of shaping through ironwork, turnback cuffs, box pleat for movement, arrowhead tacks, and a folded vent that can be fastened with buttons. All this takes time and skilled labor.
Interesting to read about the exhibition next year marking the centenary of Queen Elizabeth II’s birth. My book Dressing the Queen comes out next year as well. It has a different focus, the many makers to the royal wardrobe over 200 years. Here Hartnell, 1961 #RCT#FashionHistory 🗃️🪡
July 22, 2025 at 11:02 AM
Interesting to read about the exhibition next year marking the centenary of Queen Elizabeth II’s birth. My book Dressing the Queen comes out next year as well. It has a different focus, the many makers to the royal wardrobe over 200 years. Here Hartnell, 1961 #RCT#FashionHistory 🗃️🪡
All this bright red silk chiffon cocktail dress needs is an egg nog and a high heel. Ceil Chapman liked to ruche her gowns and this mid #1950s gown gathers the fabric around the body then lets it flow with a matching shoulder stole #goldsteinmuseum#FashionHistory 🗃️🪡
November 22, 2025 at 7:45 PM
All this bright red silk chiffon cocktail dress needs is an egg nog and a high heel. Ceil Chapman liked to ruche her gowns and this mid #1950s gown gathers the fabric around the body then lets it flow with a matching shoulder stole #goldsteinmuseum#FashionHistory 🗃️🪡
Those are there because Levis' Type III derives its history from the Type I and II (pics 1 and 2), which themselves derive from the Triple Pleat Blouse (pic 3). All of these jackets feature pleats that run parallel to the jacket's front edge.
January 8, 2025 at 5:34 AM
Those are there because Levis' Type III derives its history from the Type I and II (pics 1 and 2), which themselves derive from the Triple Pleat Blouse (pic 3). All of these jackets feature pleats that run parallel to the jacket's front edge.